Most people do the majority of their hillwalking in spring, summer and autumn, which is where the term ‘3-season boot’ comes from.

Three-season boots are generally ideal for anything apart from snow and ice. If you’re heading out in winter you should upgrade to a dedicated winter boot, which will be warmer, stiffer and more heavy-duty with the capability of kicking into ice and snow. They’ll also usually have a crampon-compatible ledge at the rear.

Do you stick to paths and grassy slopes, or do you prefer scree chutes and rocky ridges? Different boots are built for different terrain, with factors like the strength of the toe box, the level of ankle support, the tread on the outsole, and the materials used on the upper varying depending on the end-use.

This is probably the first big choice facing you when buying a pair of mountain boots. The traditional leather hillwalking boot is still very popular in terms of durability and the fact it’s easy to care for, but synthetic materials are catching up fast in terms of performance and the differences are becoming less obvious. Weight and fit, for example, are probably more important factors to consider than the type of material used.

It’s always tempting to go for the highest specification, but remember that comfort is key – particularly if you’ll be walking a long way, up steep terrain, and carrying heavy loads. Once you’ve picked the features you want in your boot, focus on finding the most comfortable pair you possibly can.

Boot fit isn’t just about the size of your foot, it’s about the shape of it too. The boot should be slightly longer than your foot (by around 1cm) because you don’t want your toes bashing against the front while you walk.

The upper should also feel snug and comfy so that your feet don’t slide from side to side. The best thing to do is visit a good outdoor gear shop, where you’ll get advice on testing the length, lacing the boots, checking the flex and heel movement, and lots of other important factors.

The grooves on the base of your outsole are known as lugs, with the depth and pattern determining the level of grip you get. The general rule is that the deeper the lugs and the deeper the heel breast (the cutaway bit between the forefoot and feel), the more grip you will get. For winter walking and hiking on loose or rocky terrain good grip is very important, while for lower-level walks you’ll get away with a more shallow outsole tread.

A good way to test the stiffness of a boot is to hold it at the toe and heel, then try to bend it in the middle. Once you’ve done that, try twisting it too. The harder it is to bend and twist, the more suited it will be to more serious terrain. Another good tactic is to pinch the heel and press the toe to see how protective those parts of the boot are. The more solid they are, the more they’ll withstand bashing your feet on rocks!